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Friday, August 20th, 2010
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Thursday, August 19th, 2010
By virtue of the nature of the job, waiters, it is sometimes said, develop a unique schizophrenia . We have one personality in the kitchen, but then, traversing the kitchen doors into the dining room, we blossom into a smiling, pleasant master of the English language, exuding an elegance conducive to the best in fine dining. In the dining room we please… in the kitchen we demand. In the dining room we are obsequious. In the kitchen we are assertive. It gets a little emotionally exhausting at times, but that is the nature of the beast.
My best advice for prospective waiters and waitresses is to have fun. There’s a reason they call it the hospitality industry…. we’re supposed to be hospitable! If we have fun, our guests will have fun. If our guests have fun, we will make more money.
Another thing to remember is that no fine dining establishment is looking to train robots. If that were the case, they’d hire monkeys. Let your personality spring forth. Be one of a kind!
But… and this is a big but (pun intended!)…. One must be a master of the basics before the personality can thrive. Know your wine list, know your menu, know your computer system, know how to get along with your coworkers, know your table numbers, know your side work, polish your stemware, polish your silver. Begin each shift fresh… like a flower! Then, and only then, will you achieve your fullest potential, both technically and economically. And really, we are all in this boat together for economical reasons…
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Monday, August 2nd, 2010
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Sunday, June 27th, 2010
My good friend, Ray, offers some common sense to a world that is sometimes lacking in the same…
A letter to the people of Arizona
by: Raymundo Garcia
Hello, Arizonans. I heard about your new law against undocumented aliens. Wow! That’s some radical stuff you’ve got there.
With all due respect, however, I think you have a few of your facts wrong. For example: It seems some of you believe undocumented aliens don’t pay taxes.
Do you think that when an undocumented person pays his or her rent, property taxes are waived because of his undocumented status? Do you think that when they buy clothes and food and theater tickets and gasoline, all of the state, federal and local taxes are subtracted from their totals? Are you also aware that many undocumented workers are paying employment taxes into accounts that are not legally theirs, and that they have no prospect of ever receiving their investment in return when they retire?
Many of you are under the impression that the undocumented are here taking jobs away from Americans. The reality is that our market economy invisibly “pulls” people form other countries for positions not filled with the labor force at hand. These people would not come here if our market weren’t desperate for them to come.
You argue that what you want is for these people to follow the law. I agree with you on that one. However, has it occurred to you that maybe the law is wrong?
When the United States was dry during Prohibition, it was against the law to drink or produce alcohol. After several years of that unfortunate experiment, the wise people of our country decided to change the law.
Our laws are not written in stone. They change in a process that over time shapes our society. For example: We make it easy for someone to emigrate if they have a Ph.D. because of our national “brain drain.” Well, we also have a “labor drain,” and we need those hard-working folks from south of the border to do the jobs our markets are desperate for.
Sorry to give you more bad news, Arizonans. We in the United States are losing a worldwide battle of ideology and population. There are more and more people being born into the world who do not believe in the same things that we do. People with political, economic and religious ideologies that are in complete competition with ours in the United States.
Do you know what that means, oh you wise Arizonans? It means we will soon be outnumbered in the world by people who don’t like us and don’t share our beliefs and ideas.
Ever since 9/11 we have, unfortunately, equated aliens with criminals. These undocumented aliens are criminals only because we won’t give them legal status.
We should change the laws and allow more people into our country and give them the opportunity to live and work and buy homes and pay taxes and, well, become Americans. I want for there to be more people, not fewer, who believe in the American way.
—
Raymundo Garcia operates El Taco Real in Hammond. The opinion expressed in this column is the writer’s and not necessarily that of The Times.
Thanks Raymundo, from your friend, Mike “the Waiter”
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Friday, June 25th, 2010
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Friday, June 25th, 2010
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Thursday, May 20th, 2010
May 18, 2010
Marijuana Fuels a New Kitchen Culture
By KIM SEVERSON
EVEN preschool teachers unwind with a round of drinks now and then. But in professional kitchens, where the hours are long, the pace intense and the goal is to deliver pleasure, the need to blow off steam has long involved substances that are mind-altering and, often enough, illegal.
“Everybody smokes dope after work,” said Anthony Bourdain, the author and chef who made his name chronicling drugs and debauchery in professional kitchens. “People you would never imagine.”
So while it should not come as a surprise that some chefs get high, it’s less often noted that drug use in the kitchen can change the experience in the dining room.
In the 1980s, cocaine helped fuel the frenetic open kitchens and boisterous dining rooms that were the incubators of celebrity chef culture. Today, a small but influential band of cooks says both their chin-dripping, carbohydrate-heavy food and the accessible, feel-good mood in their dining rooms are influenced by the kind of herb that can get people arrested.
Call it haute stoner cuisine.
“There has been an entire strata of restaurants created by chefs to feed other chefs,” Mr. Bourdain said. “These are restaurants created specially for the tastes of the slightly stoned, slightly drunk chef after work.”
As examples of places serving that kind of food, he offered some of David Chang’s restaurants; Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal, with its poutine of foie gras; Crif Dogs in the East Village, which makes a deep-fried cheese steak hot dog; and, in fact, the entire genre of mutant-hot-dog stands.
To be sure, substance abuse and addiction are concerns in the restaurant industry, and any restaurant where an employee or owner is caught with illegal drugs could lose its liquor license.
It is also hard to imagine any ambitious kitchen could function safely during dinner rush if the staff were impaired.
And despite what Mr. Bourdain said, a great many cooks get along just fine with no chemical assistance at all.
Nevertheless, a handful of chefs are unabashedly open about marijuana’s role in their creative and recreational lives and its effect on their restaurants.
The chefs and restaurateurs Frank Falcinelli and Frank Castronovo said most of their projects — going to Sicily to import olive oil to sell at their two Frankies Spuntino restaurants; the concept for their Brooklyn restaurant Prime Meats; even a new restaurant planned for Portland, Ore. — were conceived with the creative help of marijuana.
Roy Choi, who owns the fleet of Kogi Korean taco trucks in Los Angeles, likens the culinary culture that has grown up around marijuana to the one that rose up around the Grateful Dead years ago. Then, people who attended the band’s shows got high and shared live music. Now, people get high and share delicious, inventive and accessible food.
“It’s good music, maybe a little weed and really good times and great food that makes you feel good,” he said.
“We’re not like Cypress Hill,” Mr. Choi said, referring to a rap group known for being outspoken advocates of pot use. “It’s not like a campaign to make food out of hemp, but it is a culture. It’s a vibe we have.”
Mr. Choi, who recently opened his first restaurant, Chego!, said he uses marijuana to keep his creativity up and to squeeze in quick breaks in the midst of 17-hour workdays.
“In the middle of a busy day, I’ll smoke,” he said. “Then I’ll go to the record store and hang out and clear my mind or pop into a matinee movie and then come back to the streets.”
Getting in touch with the haute stoner food aesthetic, though, does not necessarily mean looking at life through a haze of smoke.
The cereal milk soft-serve ice cream at Momofuku Milk Bar in Manhattan is a perfect example. A dessert based on the slightly sweet flavor of milk at the bottom of a cereal bowl particularly appeals to someone who knows both high-quality food and the cannabis-induced pleasure of a munchie session built from a late-night run to the 7-Eleven.
Christina Tosi, the pastry chef of David Chang’s empire, said she was stone-cold sober when she invented it. She was in the basement of Mr. Chang’s Ssam Bar late at night, trying to save a failed experiment in fried apple pies.
“I promise you there was no marijuana involved,” she said. “It would have made the stress of it more bearable if it was.”
Mr. Chang said drugs will always be part of kitchen culture, but that marijuana alone did not explain the changes in the culinary landscape that his restaurants represent.
“I don’t know what happened,” he said. “But it certainly wasn’t calculated. We wanted to serve great food at an affordable price. That’s it.”
Patty Scull, who lives in the East Village, recently spent part of an evening at Momofuku Milk Bar spooning up cinnamon-bun cereal milk soft-serve with chocolate fudge topping.
“It’s so random that it’s something you would eat if you were totally baked,” she said. (For the record, she said she wasn’t.)
Ms. Tosi defines haute stoner cuisine as the kind of food that tastes good in the altered state marijuana brings.
“You like to eat stuff with texture and that is really deep in flavors,” said Ms. Tosi, who acknowledged the stoner appeal of her creations. “You want the ultimate sensory experience.”
Even for people who don’t use illegal drugs, the deep flavors and sensory appeal of dishes like the breakfast burrito pizza at Roberta’s in Bushwick, Brooklyn, have an undeniable appeal. They plug directly into the reptilian portion of our brains, the side that wants what it wants and wants it now — and also a big bowl of it, please.
“I always call it the Big Mac effect,” said the chef Vinny Dotolo, who owns Animal in Los Angeles with Jon Shook. Mr. Shook’s version of the French-Canadian dish poutine, built from Cheddar cheese and French fries covered in oxtail gravy, might be considered for the haute stoner food hall of fame.
The McDonald’s sandwich is familiar and offers a range of tastes, Mr. Dotolo said. There are savory elements from the cheese and beef, sweetness from the sauce, tartness from the pickle and crunch from the lettuce, all surrounded by soft white bread.
“It’s that thing where you’re trying to hit all the senses,” he said.
If you are still skeptical, check out a Web-based show called “Munchies” (www.vbs.tv/watch/munchies), which follows chefs as they party and eat late into the night, then head back to their kitchens to cook. Billows of smoke and doobie references abound. Although the show can be cagey about who is doing the smoking, featured chefs have included the men from Animal, Mr. Chang and the Franks — Mr. Falcinelli and Mr. Castronovo.
Joanne Weir, a San Francisco cooking teacher and television personality who went to Woodstock at age 15, said that there is a difference between this period in stoner cuisine and the cooking of the hippie movement. “It’s people’s pursuit of the best ingredients,” she said.
Chefs who smoke say that includes the marijuana itself.
“The quality of marijuana you’re getting, just like the quality of booze you’re getting and the quality of food you’re getting, is better,” Mr. Falcinelli said.
Although marijuana has long been a part of restaurant culture, its current prominence results, he said, from “a triple coincidence.”
More states are legalizing marijuana or offering medical marijuana plans, so there is more and better pot in circulation, Mr. Falcinelli and other chefs said. At the same time, diners are wild about high-end snacking: witness the rise of food carts and the elevation of humble dishes like pizza, hamburgers and pork buns.
The chefs of the haute stoner cuisine movement are just as obsessive about their marijuana as they are about olive oil, wine or coffee.
“It’s like getting the best cheese,” Mr. Falcinelli said. “I have like four or five different types of marijuana in my refrigerator right now.”
The sensibility extends to the latest wave of coffee culture. Coffee geeks are as infatuated with their Pacas varietal beans from Central America as pot users are with their sticky sinsemilla from Humboldt County in California.
Duane Sorenson, the founder of the coffee roaster Stumptown, said that fat buds of marijuana often end up in the tip jar at his shops.
“It goes hand in hand with a cup of coffee,” he said. “It’s called wake and bake. Grab a cup of Joe and get on with it.”
Yet this is not the ’70s stoner culture of a thousand basement rec rooms, with chefs sprawled on the floor saying, “Dude, where’s my entree?” Some of the haute stoners claim that marijuana gives them an intense focus.
“We smoke quote-unquote the working man’s weed,” Mr. Falcinelli said. Mr. Castronovo added: “I’m not spacey at all. It gives me energy.”
Much of the food of the haute stoner movement is well crafted and well executed by chefs with traditional culinary training who are trying to create something both countercultural and sophisticated, said Gail Simmons, special project director of Food & Wine magazine.
“You need to have some thought and some skill to make these dishes,” she said. “It’s not just, ‘I’m twirling around at a Dead concert and I stumbled upon this cool dish.’ ”
Mr. Bourdain said Mr. Chang is a case in point.
“His sensibility is that he makes high-end stoner food in one respect but I feel sorry for anyone who shows up stoned for their shift at Momofuku,” he said. “He’d kill them.”
Mr. Chang’s establishments, Mr. Bourdain said, typify the stripping away of pretense that defines the haute stoner restaurant. Tables are bare, plates and napkins might be luxe but plain. Food comes flying from the kitchen when it’s done, courses be damned.
“If you’re stoned in a restaurant, you don’t want to deal with six layers of tableware,” Mr. Bourdain said.
Diners like the democratization of food that is part of haute stoner cuisine, as well. Rick Darge, 27, who lives in an area he calls “Beverly Hills adjacent,” seeks out Mr. Choi’s roaming taco trucks about once a week, using Twitter or the Web.
The search is part of the appeal, as is finding a piece of curb to sit while he eats. He feels more involved in the experience.
“We don’t have to go into an establishment, or be a certain way inside,” he said. “It’s more organic than that.”
Haute stoner cuisine is a way to reach a generation that was raised on Sprite and Funyuns and who never thought fancy restaurant food was for them, Mr. Choi said.
“We’ve shattered who is getting good food now,” he said. “It’s this silent message to everyone, to the every-day dude. It’s like come here, here’s a cuisine for you that will fill you up from the inside and make you feel whole and good. Weed is just a portal.”
Ron Siegel, who runs the Michelin-starred dining room at the Ritz-Carlton in San Francisco, said he’s grown past his partying days. But even he is having a little fun with haute stoner cuisine.
To serve slow-cooked quail eggs and caviar, he places them atop plastic film that tightly covers a white porcelain serving bowl. Then he fills the vessel with smoke from grated Japanese cedar packed into the bowl of a fan-driven bong he buys in the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood. The smoke escapes when the diner lifts a small spoon covering a hole in the plastic.
He calls it the Lincecum, after Tim Lincecum, the star pitcher for the San Francisco Giants who was arrested last fall after police found marijuana and a pipe in his car.
Like other chefs who have been around long enough to see a few trends come and go, Mr. Siegel thinks stoner food is really another version of comfort food. After particularly high-flying cultural periods or national tragedies, people retreat to dishes that are soothing and familiar, he said.
Or it could be that after an era of intensely designed or pretentious food, a retreat to simplicity follows, said Ken Friedman, the man behind the Spotted Pig and a self-described “well-known stoner.”
He doesn’t characterize the food at the Pig or at the Breslin as stoner food as much as simple food. But he is a businessman who recognizes a good trend when he sees one. He designed his bar and snack emporium, the Rusty Knot, to have a ’70s feel, with comfortable couches, black-light posters and snacks that are easily consumed with one hand.
“The Rusty Knot is the most stoner of all my places,” he said. “It’s kind of like the basement we all had when we grew up where we first smoked pot.”
Rebecca Cathcart contributed reporting from Los Angeles.
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Friday, May 14th, 2010
A customer was bothering the waiter in a restaurant. First, he asked that the air conditioning be turned up because he was too hot, then he asked it be turned down cause he was too cold, and so on for about half an hour.
Surprisingly, the waiter was very patient, he walked back and forth and never once got angry. So finally, a second customer asked him why he didn’t throw out the pest.
“Oh, I really don’t care or mind,” said the waiter with a smile. “We don’t even have an air conditioner.”
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Thursday, May 6th, 2010
We work when others play. Our body rhythm is inverse to the rest of the population. Our peers are similarly affected and limited to a degree to those who share this lifestyle … er, uh … those who are awake when we are awake!
Ergo, …
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Wednesday, May 5th, 2010
The media whip up the gullible to sell more commercials … which is in the interest of the media … but which is not in the interest of America. In our democracy, we fight ideas … with ideas. The media engages ideas … with lies and name calling … because it sells more newspapers and sleep number beds.
For as long as we Republicans continue to acquiesce amidst such antics, so shall we remain a minority party…
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